Beaches

Beaches are natural playgrounds partly under the sun and partly under the sea where people can swim and surfboard, sun themselves and study other people. This human activity tends to obscure the fact that the beach itself is constantly in motion, quietly changing its configuration and restlessly shifting its position, grain by grain, until huge masses of sand have been moved. On a small scale and in a matter of hours the sand castles disappear and the footprints are erased; on a large scale, after days and months, the height of the sand around the rocks changes, the waves break in new places and the beach becomes broader or narrower. Indeed, over a period of years large quantities of sand may arrive or depart, posing complex problems of conservation for the people who want to enjoy the beach. This dynamic quality was incorporated by the late Columbia University physiographer Douglas W. Johnson into a definition: “A beach is a deposit of material which is in transit either alongshore or off-and-on shore.” Thus three elements make a beach: a quantity of rocky material, a shore-line area in which it moves and a supply of energy to move it.